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Peak Mountain 3

Bloody Toes

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Description

This is a one and a half pitch scramble on the eastern wall of Boulder Canyon. Start up ~4th class terrain to a bulge (5.4 crux) with two old bolts. Keep climbing to a ledge with a good two bolt anchor and rap tat. Climb up and left from the anchor into then up and over a small pod--coolest part of the route. Keep scrambling to the top. There's lots of very fractured rock at the top, which seemed more solid than it looked, but still felt like anything might break or pull out.

Descent options:

  1. There is no fixed anchor for the last pitch, but there might be options for slinging a tree or boulder in order to descend the route directly in two rappels. 2. If you have a rope, walk down class 2-4 terrain to the top pitch of the Ridge Route, with a rap station on two new bolts. A 20 m rap gets you to another bolted station and either a second rap or a scramble to the west. 3. A ropeless option is to scramble over into August Canyon and down climb the George Route.

Location

Located on the eastern side of Boulder Canyon. Check out Marty's guide or Phoenix Rock for a map.

Protection

Two old bolts to protect first pitch crux, two new bolts at anchor. Probably no options for placing gear.