Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days is a modern variation to one of the oldest routes on the mountain.

First free climbed in 1948, several years before other routes were being attempted without aid techniques, the Ridge Route ascent was a remarkable achievement at the time. (Opland, Phoenix Rock II)

Barbarian Days brings aid climbing back to the scene by branching off the Ridge Route and traversing left and under the Big Wave!

Pitch 1: Climb the Ridge Route to an awesome alcove with a modern 2 Bolt anchor (no chains).

Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove and up an easy but unprotected 10m section to another 2 bolt anchor. Either move the belay to this ledge or take a left and follow the rotten ledge until it peters out, placing small-medium sized cams on your way to the first aid moves and then a bolt. (Please be aware of any hikers below Major Rockfall potential in this section) Get out your ladders and traverse left to the prow. Hook needed. Build an anchor using the 3 bolts at the prow.

Pitch 3: Get Ready to Ride the Big Wave! Continue traversing left placing cams underneath the roof. Clip a bolt and commit to the exposure. Expect a gear placement or two between each bolt. Micro-Medium sizes. (***Recommended - Early repeats bring a wrench to tighten any loose bolt hangers, potential for crystals behind to break and cause the hanger to loosen.)

Descent - Hike over to the top of the chimney on the Ridge Route to find a two bolt anchor. Rappel back down to the ledge (20m) or alcove (30m). From there either rappel off from the alcove or scramble off to the SW.

***80m or 2 Ropes needed to rappel/bail at the end of Pitch 2. (dont get a parking ticket)

Hike West toward August and Boulder Canyons. The Big Wave is between the two canyons. Look for the ridge at the entrance to Boulder Canyon to get started. The alcove is next to the large singular saguaro.  

Ladders, Fifi Hook, Cams, Nuts, Hook, Wrench