Tulgey Wood

An excellent route which will test all of your crack climing techniques. This route starts in a left facing dihederal on the south end of the west face just right of a tree and 2 cracks to the left of the 5.10 version of Mcarthy West Face.

The first pitch (10a) is fun and continuous with thin fingers & liebacking up the corner to a belay on top of the column on the left. Pitch 2 heads up a short corner (10a)to another ledge. These pitches could probably be combined with a 60m rope. The third pitch is the meat of the climb. Continue up the obvious crack in the left-facing corner. Although it is "easier" at 5.9 it is wide, continous, and gets more steep as you go for a long 160+ feet. From here you can do some poor climbing up chimneys to reach the summit or do two long raps on double ropes form bolts.

Mark Morehouse

Stoppers and small cams for the first and 2nd pitch. The 3rd pitch is wide and would eat up 3.5 camalots, although 3's work well in spots and you could use a #2 and the bottom of the pitch.