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Peak Mountain 3

411 Southwest

FA Dave Rone, George Kremer: June 1991
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

411 Southwest starts one crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. Start up this crack and then traverse left past a bolt to the next crack. Now use the crack, and edges and flakes on the face and arete to the left, to climb past 4 bolts (first crux). Continue up placing small gear until you reach the next bolts, passing a two-bolt anchor on the right. Climb past these bolts (second crux) and then continuous 5.10/5.11 climbing will get you to the upper anchor, a bolt and a fixed pin.

All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests. Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.

Location

411 Southwest is the 1st crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the first bolt to the left of this crack.

If you brought 2 ropes, one rappel will get you to the base of the route. Otherwise, one rope rappel to the intermediate anchors, and another rappel to the base.

You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.

Protection

This pitch has 9 bolts (including the intermediate anchor). It will also require small-medium stoppers, a two sets of RP's, and a two sets of C3's or the equivalent, and Friends to #2.5.