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Peak Mountain 3

Vicious Rumors

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Description

This mixed route is pretty fun climbing, but it's squeezed in there and only has a 1 ring bolt anchor.

It is immediately left of

The Ticket

. Start up the easy dihedral at the base of

The Ticket

angling left (same as

Saturday Treat

), placing a few pieces, then cut right and climb the 3 bolt vertical wall.

At the ledge, step right and clip the pin (or a bolt on

The Ticket

with a sling). Then work your way up left on the ramp. The route is really close to

The Ticket

here, and I was a little confused, so I clipped two bolts on

The Ticket

, but I think you're supposed to just climb left up the easy ramp and place a piece along the way. Then step right to clip a bolt, and climb through the bulge with a crack in the middle and another on the right side (cool moves) to another ledge.

Climb up the face past another bolt to the single ring bolt anchor. I climbed straight up past the anchor where you can place a #2 and/or #3 with a sling as a directional, and traverse straight right and down to the anchors on

The Ticket

, or left and down to some other anchors. I went to

The Ticket

.

Location

It is immediately left of

The Ticket

. Start in the same spot (also the same as

Saturday Treat

). This shares a few moves with

The Ticket

mid-way up.

Protection

This is a mixed gear & bolt line. The guidebook says to protect with 6 bolts and gear to 3 inches. Take a few extra draws and a long sling or two. A single set of cams green Alien to #3 was sufficient.

The anchor is 1 ring bolt. I climbed above, placed a #3 on a sling, and traversed right to

The Ticket

. It would be better with a second bolt at the anchor.