- Edit (TBD)
Description
This mixed route is pretty fun climbing, but it's squeezed in there and only has a 1 ring bolt anchor.
It is immediately left of
The Ticket
. Start up the easy dihedral at the base of
The Ticket
angling left (same as
Saturday Treat
), placing a few pieces, then cut right and climb the 3 bolt vertical wall.
At the ledge, step right and clip the pin (or a bolt on
The Ticket
with a sling). Then work your way up left on the ramp. The route is really close to
The Ticket
here, and I was a little confused, so I clipped two bolts on
The Ticket
, but I think you're supposed to just climb left up the easy ramp and place a piece along the way. Then step right to clip a bolt, and climb through the bulge with a crack in the middle and another on the right side (cool moves) to another ledge.
Climb up the face past another bolt to the single ring bolt anchor. I climbed straight up past the anchor where you can place a #2 and/or #3 with a sling as a directional, and traverse straight right and down to the anchors on
The Ticket
, or left and down to some other anchors. I went to
The Ticket
.
Location
It is immediately left of
The Ticket
. Start in the same spot (also the same as
Saturday Treat
). This shares a few moves with
The Ticket
mid-way up.
Protection
This is a mixed gear & bolt line. The guidebook says to protect with 6 bolts and gear to 3 inches. Take a few extra draws and a long sling or two. A single set of cams green Alien to #3 was sufficient.
The anchor is 1 ring bolt. I climbed above, placed a #3 on a sling, and traversed right to
The Ticket
. It would be better with a second bolt at the anchor.
Routes in Upper East Face
- 11Vicious Rumors5.11b/cTrad