The Young and the Rackless

Note: this route is subject to the YEARLY closure for raptor nesting in Boulder Canyon.

This is a pleasant, multi-pitch sport climb with several very short crux sections and moderate slab climbing in between. Good belay stances and good anchors for belaying and rappelling make this an excellent first multi-pitch climb. The FA party rated this 10b, but for someone of my height (6'2", -1 ape factor), it's 5.9. There are a couple of spots where reach might make a difference.

Approach: this route is on the left edge of the Upper East Face of East Blob Rock. See the beta photo for Blob Rock. East Blob is the formation on the right of the photo with the pointed top. The route starts a short ways up the gully that runs up and right along the base of East Blob. Walk up the trail to the base of the gully that separates Blob Rock from East Blob. Walk down and right along the base of Blob Slab and up to the base of the Upper East Face of East Blob. The route starts left of a dead tree with no branches, just left of where the wall starts to overhang right off the ground. The tree is just left of a large boulder near the wall. The climb angles left and then back right below a prominent large orange buttress at the top of the cliff.

The route: the bolt counts and pitch lengths are approximate. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined. Pitches 3 and 4 might be combined, but there may be rope drag.

P1: starting at a thin crack that angles slightly right, climb a steep face and then move left to an easy slab and the belay, 5.9, 7 bolts, 80'.

P2: angle left on easy ground to a short steep wall which is climbed at 5.9 if you can reach the hold. The FA party calls this 10b, and it may be that hard if you are short, 5 bolts. 60'.

P3: There are two variations to pitch 3. Since I was self-belaying, I climbed the left variation on the lead and the right variation when I cleaned the pitch. The left variation is better and goes over a bulge at 5.9 to a slab. The right variation climbs a dirty, right-facing corner and is harder (

and was missing the top bolt of the variation

(per

Áine Huntington

). The start, which looks hard, is easy. The top, which looks easy, is hard and involves flared hand jams. Where the variations join, make an interesting 5.9 move into a right-facing, right-leaning corner and up to a ledge, 9 bolts, 90'.

P4: angle right on a fun 5.8 slab and up easier rock to the top anchors. 8 bolts, 70'. (Stay right on P4, as the obvious route up the overhung face is not remotely a 5.8.)

Approximately 12 quickdraws, or 18 if you will link pitches. No trad gear is needed, although there are often good gear placements near the bolts. The bolts are closely spaced even on easy ground.