Fandango Variation

Start the same as for

Fandango

, about 200 hundred feet up the left edge of the rock.

P1. Travel right, then up the massive flake and around the roof. A 60m rope can not quite make the tree above and left after turning the roof - it's about 10 yards short. Plan accordingly.

P2. The variation goes up and right slightly, up an easy face to a huge tree. Step over and onto a ledge behind the tree and a couple of nice large boulders.

P3. Follow the clean face up and left with the left-facing dihedral. Where the dihedral turns left and grows larger, move out right and join back up with Fandango.

P4. Head straight up, or follow the dihedral up and right to the summit traverse.

P5-6. From here, it takes usually two pitches to reach the summit block. Take care, for the ridge traverse is exposed at times.

Rappel 100 feet off of two eye bolts, or down climb via the south. Note: a 50m rope may be used for the rappel, but it's definitely not recommended. The rope didn't touch the ground until we were nearly at the end of the rope.

Standard rack. Protection is thin in places, and there are some exposing run outs.