Butterfly

This route is similar to the popular

Direct Route

, but there are no bolts to follow and the route finding is tricky. This climb is very runout in spots (like most Flatiron climbs), but the crux is well protected.

This climb starts some distance left of and above the

Direct Route

. The easiest way to identify the area of the first 2 pitches is to look for a huge, diamond-shaped slab of pale yellow rock. Follow the approach for Fandango, scrambling around the south side of a big boulder near this section of the face (the Witch's Cabin). This climb begins 40' west of the top of the Witch's Cabin.

Climb a strange, tricky looking gully, which goes through the right side of a roof. Continue up the gully, but eventually break left up the huge diamond shaped slab. Belay anywhere you can find a good anchor.

P2: Continue straight up the slab with little pro (5.4) aiming for a section of roofs above you. The roofs are the crux and there are several ways to pass them. I headed toward the far right side of one, cranked over it (good pro), and then traversed left just over the lip and below another overhang to a good belay.

P3: Head straight up, aiming for a tree about 120' above you. After this pitch the climbing becomes easier and in one more pitch joins the

Direct (Regular) Route

at the "route junction knob".

[This route is labeled "1a" in the

0. Far Right, 2. 1. Direct E Face, 6R. 1a. Butterfly, 6R. 2. Fandango, 5. 2a. Variation, 6. 3. Baker's Way, 3. 4. Way of the Ancients, 7R. 5. Zig Zag, 7. 6. ?Kamikaze, 9? 9. Hubris, 6. Unmarked Atlanta, 3.

]

Standard Flatiron rack.