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Peak Mountain 3

Wildcat

FA Deb Wolfe, Jeff Schoen, 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Description from Erik Lynch:

Pitch 1: 55m; Long moderate pitch up to the ledge. It follows the crack system left of the big corner. Great climbing, good rock, a little bit bushy. 5.10-

Pitch 2: 35m?; Bump the belay about 20 meters right to the base of possibly the best crack in Tuolumne, definitely not 12a. Burly climbing leads through the initial bulge (12a), to an easier section of hands. Rest up for the crack switch, hard liebacking, and final boulder problem waiting above. 5.12+?

Pitch 3: 20-30m; Move the belay back left, or just deal with some drag. Climb the obvious corner up to the base of the roof. Its dirty and bushy(some mandatory bush grabbing), but protects well. Keep an eye out for fixed pro. 5.10

Pitch 4: 20m; Wild climbing out the roof. Brian's comments say it all. Enjoy some seriously 3 dimensional movement! 5.11+

Pitch 5: 30m; Climb the double cracks up and right. The climbing is quite good, but not obvious and dirty, making the lead quite exciting. Belay below the large OW corner. 5.11

Pitch 6: 40m; Climb the easier OW to where it widens into a flare. Then it gets a bit real. Liebacking is the easiest - but wow, very scary. You eventually have to get into a lieback as the flare pinches down. The crux lies in getting back into the safety of the chimney. Once back in the safe womb of the mountain climb an unprotected chimney up to the summit

Location

This route is on the left side of the golden and black streak domed that is reminiscent of the Bachar-Yerian area on Medlicott Dome.

Protection

Gear: A standard double rack tips to #3, with triples from .4 to #1. A good set of nuts, 6 Alpine Draws, 6 Quickdraws, 70m Rope