- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the splitter flared tips crack on golden granite just 10 feet right of the Buckin' Bronco corner. It has not yet been freed on lead. Only aided and top roped, so get out there and go for it! Guessing its about 12c/d-ish. The first 25 or so feet are tips or less and you have to make use of the crack edge and face holds. Protection would be good, but will be difficult to place due to the nature of how you climb it. I would not be opposed to adding a bolt or two at the start. You can aid up it at c1 and it eases to 5.11 after about 25 feet. After about 50 feet the climb eases considerably to 5.9 but is still enjoyable climbing until the anchor. A single 70 meter barely makes it down. Tie knots!
Location
10 feet right of Buckin Bronco Corner. To access climb the first pitch of 'It takes a Village' and move about 300 ft right on the Sky Lounge. Most of this is walking but there are a few exposed 4th class moves that you might want to have a rope on for.
Protection
You'll likely want doubles of tiny - finger size cams, and a set of offset cams. The crack is very flared at parts.
Routes in Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
- 7Just the Tips5.12c/dTrad