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Peak Mountain 3

Rinky Dink

FA Brad shaver, Bob Mitchell,art Williams. FFA was Howard, Stegg, and Okel
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Begin at a obvious corner crack system left of bumblebee buttress. Climb, jam, and stem your way up the corner past 3 fixed pins(5.10). Once above the 3rd pin you can get an additional piece of gear and then begin a rightward traverse. Take heart in this moment as you begin the traverse, a small tcu will be found at head height after 10-15 feet of horizontal movement from the corner feature(5.8). Continue along a horizontal crack and belay or link with P2.

P2. From the horizontal crack continue right to another left facing corner, passing a nest of rap slings on a chockstone and climb up the corner to a belay at a single bolt that can be backed up with other dubious gear. (The bolt is new and in good condition) 5.7

P3. From the bolt belay go left and up passing many horizontals that accept small to medium cams. The route from here could take many variations so seek out the gear and path of least resistance. Once you get out of the steep climbing and the angle of the wall eases find a stance and belay off a gear anchor. 5.10

P4. Continue up the steep ,but less than vertical, lichen covered wall to an obvious large ledge with a large pine tree. 5.9

P5. Many options from here exist to make it past the last rock band. Choose your own adventure

I have tried to climb this route several time and have found the upper pitches to be wet. The first pitch is a worthy climb and it is easily rappelled with a single rope at a nest of slings after the first pitch traverse.

Location

Located on the NC wall 100 yards Left of the obvious large dihedral of Bumblebee.

Protection

Double rack from tcus to hand size. 1 #3 c4 should suffice.