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Peak Mountain 3

Pansy Wall

FA Doug Swords, Nathan Brown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the tallest and steepest part of the NC wall. It took quite a while to complete due to hard climbing, poor rock that had to be cleaned (P-1), and poor summer weather conditions, but it's a very worthwhile line for the grade and deserves some traffic.

P-1 Start under the right side of the cave feature. Climb the feature past 3 bolts and gear (up to a # 3 camelot). The 3rd bolt is a difficult clip (placed high due to poor rock quality lower). Belay at 2 bolt hanging belay. Note: This pitch makes for a great rainy day pitch if you happen to be in the area (when it comes). Huge roofs protect from even the heaviest of storms.

P-2 Crank hard up the steep wall past a bolt and a few pieces of gear to a belay at a good horizontal. Air time is not mandatory but is very likely!

P-3 Climb out right and up the steep clean wall past a pin (may need to be replaced) to a technical face and eventually a large belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

P-4 Continue to top via numerous possibilities.

Location

Between Direct Action and Pixie Wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Hybrid aliens were used on the FA and would likely be useful.