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Peak Mountain 3

Norepinephrine

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Description

Norepinephrine is a four-pitch variation to Epinephrine that climbs to the top of the Black Tower along the exposed arete just left of the infamous Epinephrine chimneys. An enjoyable - if slightly spooky - outing, expect continuous exposure, interesting climbing, and great belay ledges.While it will never approach the classic status of its neighbor (in large part due to a couple passages of hollow rock), it is still a good route. With traffic it should clean up nicely and the difficulty should remain unchanged. Moreover, Norepinephrine is a useful card to have up your sleeve in the event that you've hit snooze one too many times and arrive at the base of Epi only to find the chimneys clogged with multiple struggling human chockstones... Stop waiting in line, just say no to the grovel-fest, and access the upper half of Epinephrine by climbing Norepinephrine instead.P1 (200', 5.8): Same as Epinephrine: Climb pockets and slab to a bushy ledge. Move into a left-facing corner and continue up through a small roof, up a slab, and up a leaning, right-facing corner to a bolted belay.P2 (130', 5.7): Almost the same as Epinephrine: Climb up a deep chimney but instead of busting out right onto the face halfway up, continue up the chimney moving up and left to a bolted anchor directly below the towering arete. Note for the descent: Do not rap to or from this anchor!P3 (120', 5.10b): Climb up the arete to a bolt below a roof and pull the roof, being careful of some hollow holds just above. Continue up the arete to a high crux and then enter a varnished flake with a handcrack behind it. Belay above this at a bolted anchor on a ledge. 6x bolts protect.P4 (60', 5.10a): A short pitch; Climb up a nice varnished corner above the belay clipping two bolts. At the second bolt move left onto the arete again and up to a bolted belay on a large ledge (or link into the next pitch).P5 (90', 5.10a): Climb up smooth bulges right of the arete passing two bolts. Move back left to the arete again (key small cams in a horizontal before turning the corner) and continue up the arete passing two more bolts to a bolted belay on a tiered ledge (extend the belay down to the lower ledge for maximum comfort).P6 (110', 5.10a PG13): Some hollow rock in spots and slightly unnerving - exercise caution! Move off the ledge onto the arete and climb the exfoliating face passing five bolts and gear placements to a belay on the shoulder of the Black Tower (110') or all the way to the top of the Tower (130').Continue up Epinephrine or rap the route with a 70m rope (when rapping the bottom arete pitch (P3) head down then swing right around the arete and over to the bolted anchor at the base of the Epinephrine chimneys. Continue down from there).

Protection

A set of cams from small to #1 Camalot and a set of wires (or whatever you've brought for Epinephrine). 70m rope if rapping.