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Peak Mountain 3

Epi Arete

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Description

From the top of pitch 11 follow the ramp up and right approx 40m to the base of the Epi Arete (see beta photo).  Pitch 1: Climb up a left leaning crack and pull over two bulges which leads to easier ground and a nice belay ledge. (5.8) 20mPitch 2: Follow up the left facing corner to it’s end and pull over a bulge heading right to a nice stance.  Face climb up the lichenous wall and find several key placements (0.2-0.3 and or small nuts). From here trend left to the edge of the wall and climb the nice slab up to a comfy belay ledge.  (5.9+) 40mPitch 3 Climb straight up the varnished face and carefully pass over a chossy roof section on it’s left, which can be avoided by heading right below the choss roof.  This leads to a beautiful Juniper tree just below the summit of Black Velvet Peak. (5,8) 40m

Location

The arete up and right of Epinephrine.  

Protection

Epinephrine rack is sufficient 0.2 piece is nice to have