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Peak Mountain 3

Conan's Gonads (Conad's)

FA Mark Hesse & Larry Bruce, ~ 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a long, excellent, one-pitch hand crack which makes the preferred start to the classic

Wolf's Tooth

. It lies on the Lower Twin Owls, the large buttress which, suprisingly enough, lies directly below Twin Owls. In fact, when viewed from the parking lot it is difficult to distinguish them. "Conad's" is on the small west face of the Lower Owls, and is not visible from the parking lot.

Take the Gem [Lake] trail, but branch left after about 50 feet on a marked approach trail that disintegrates all-too-quickly. Bushwhack and scramble up the steep hillside, aiming for the west face. The route is easily identified by a roof-capped inset, about 20 feet high, out of which emerges the long, slightly left-leaning hand crack. Climb it (sustained 5.9) to a belay directly below the

Wolf's Tooth

Pinnacle on the Twin Owls.

Descend to the east and find a steep trail on the east side of Twin Owls, or better, continue with

Wolf's Tooth

(or another route).

If you need to return to the base of the climb, you can scramble directly down the East Side of the Lower Owls, which is faster than going over to the approach trail; otherwise, the trail is far more pleasant. If you continue on Wolfs Tooth or any other Twin Owls route, you can descend on the west side of the Owls to get back to the base of Conads--the scrambling is very confusing and annoying, however. Take care not to get cliffed.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Friend, with extra hand-sized pieces.