- Edit (TBD)
Description
It is hard to say if this is a first ascent. Some local likely cinched down their headband and cruised these two pitches in a swami belt and cut off jeans back before I was born, but to the best of my knowledge, this portion of the Twin Owls has remained unclimbed at least in the style we did it.
P1. 5.12-. Start up the wide flared crack until you are able to step right into incipient cracks. Follow these cracks up past an undercling flake, and belay in a little alcove.
P2. 5.9+. Follow the finger crack up and right towards the skyline. Continue past flared handcrack, and belay off fins at the top.
This route is dedicated to the late Danny Dresher, a true friend we hold very close to our hearts.
[Edit] Based on Gilletts guidebook, this could be a free variation of an old 5.9 A2 route called Eclipse. Apparently Daly, climbed some version of that route at 11+ (well before I was born). Both appear to be in the general vicinity of the line we did, although the route descriptions don't really add up. I figured I would keep this here for now until there is more verification.
Location
Continue past
Wolf's Tooth
on the Roosting Ramp for about 100 feet.
Protection
A doubles rack with small cams including RPs.
Routes in Twin Owls
- 3Bush-league Beefcake5.12-Trad