We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Middle Way

FA TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Variety of interesting moves (but the crux is significantly harder than the rest).

Start with feet in the right of the pair of cracks, and up that (without using holds on the right side of the crack, because they're for the route Dragon's Butt). Aim toward the right side of mature tree, up past a horizontal crack leading right, later exit from the crack going up right (without any positive holds) to the crest of the ridge.

Next trend leftward to get up onto a small boulder to the right side of the big low roof. Then step Left up across to the rock above the roof (more interesting and difficult if do this more toward left), then flaky arete to its top.

warning: Loose rock is still a concern here. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Pair of cracks on the side of the ridge which is on the right side of steep slope up from the Giving Tree. The two cracks slant leftward up to a mature tree.

--> See on this routes Photo

--> or on this routes Photo

Protection

To set up Top-Rope, see Description of Giving Tree area.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.