Black Magic

P1: Black Magic begins in the open book right of Playpin. Climb up and over a large flake and up the crack system to a nice ledge with trees and, occasionally, biting ants.

P2: Climb up nice features to a gaping flare, with fixed gear. The overhang at the top of the flare, just past the fixed gear, can be climbed directly or by going left and back over on face moves. Either way this is the crux of the route. Belay at next ledge.

P3: Continue up easy face moves to a fine spot at the top of the "Horses Head". Set a belay here or continue up and left to the start of the right facing corner.

P4: You can continue up the right facing corner or move left to the 5.7 finger crack that is a part of Strange Brew. Either way you want to move left to the pine tree and set a belay.

P5: Can continue left up dike with crack for pro or right up easy face, with no pro, as proper path of Black Magic. If going left you will come to 3 bolts for belay.

P6: Continue up easy slab. No bolts or pro till next bolted belay.

P7: Continue up easy slab to near top for gear belay.

P8: Continue on more slab as it levels off and under the Lookout.

P9-10: Another pitch or two will get you to the top of the Lookout. Pick your path.

Single set of cams and nuts.