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Peak Mountain 3

Liquid Sky

FA Mike Lechlinski, Roy McClenahan, Ron Carson, Andre Olobri, Mari Gingery-1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An exciting line linking the most prominent features on the beautiful west face of the Magician. The crux is well protected, but there is plenty of run out climbing in the mid 5.10 range.

P1 (5.10-):

Climb up a left facing, right rising ramp with good protection to a bolt. Traverse down and right on a hollow flake to a spacious ledge. Belay at a bolted anchor.

P2 (5.11- with 5.10 R):

Climb a left-facing ramp/flake to a bolt at a stance (original P1 anchor). Climb up and generally weave right passing another bolt, then up and over a left facing feature. Belay at a bolted anchor on a perfect, small ledge in the middle of a sea of granite. This belay was added after the first ascent.

P3 (5.11d):

Head straight up to another bolt and then right again toward a thin left facing scimitar shaped flake. Up this clipping two bolts and then traverse right (crux). Continue up easier ground to belay at bolts at the base of a groove.

P4 (5.10- R):

Head up the groove, then slightly right onto an arete passing two bolts. After 25-30 feet, the angle eases substantially.  Run it out on easy ground for another 80-100 feet.

Location

The leftmost line on the west face of the Magician.  Start behind the Hot for Teacher boulder.

Protection

gear to 2"