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Peak Mountain 3

Gym Rats from Hell

FA Wayne Wallace, Robert McGown, 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

You'll likely want to belay from the trail. Start straight up from the tree root with small gear and clip a bolt before reaching the stellar but short hand crack. Jam this up to a funky move onto the ledge. From this restful stance, pull small edges up the vertical face. This is a thin, exciting sequence. Don't get sucked left at the last bolt. Pull onto the ledge and walk gingerly to the Beginner's Luck anchors.

Note: This route is much safer to lead than top-rope due to the potential swing after unclipping the last lead bolt.

Location

On the prow on the far right side of the Shining Wall, just right of the Beginner's Luck alcove

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 1.5", anchor with fat hangers (do not lower)