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Peak Mountain 3

Paleontologist

FA McGown, Nakahira, 3-89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is barely a trad route if you stop at the first anchor shared with Extinction. Climb the brief hand crack to a low ledge, then pull through the pumpy face with good stances to another ledge. The anchor listed here in the Olson book is gone, so continue up and left across the face. A tough, reachy move gets you off the deck, and a slight runout above the fourth bolt gains the 2" crack that takes you to the anchors. There isn't an anchor on the ledge above so stop here unless you intend to continue to the top of the cliff.

If you do this, you can make a strenuous pull onto the "falcon ledge" and then a more strenuous overhanging crack move up to a stance at a new anchor. This extension goes at 5.10+.

Location

The "main deck" of the Shining Wall. Starts behind the pointy boulder, straight up from the low ledge.

Protection

To first anchor: 4 bolts, one cam between 1.5-3", anchor with mussy hooks

Extension: gear to 2"