Southeast Chimney

This is a very unique and pleasing route, perhaps a great one for a windy but dry day. If you liked

Hatch

or

Rehatch

, then this pleasant slot is for you. The rock is remarkable solid and hard, with little or nothing loose, and the slot is just wide enough to extend hands and touch both sides for a strong majority of its length.

The route feels a lot like canyoneering in a way, and you pass ferns and the occasional dwarfed tree but remarkably no moss, lichen, sand, choss or other things we'd associate with a water-course. It was a really pleasant surprise.

But for the first 20 meters, this climb in impeccably clean and classic. There is nothing else like it in the Flatirons.

This route starts at the far left edge of the East Face of Jamcrack Spire. Walk up left to pass the main face, looking up into a broad runnel, perhaps 20-30 feet deep and 50 feet wide at the base. 2 downed pine trees lie capsized at the bottom of this virtual canyon, the higher one long since dead with needles still clinging, the lower one more recently alive, and pointing N/NE. Walk up into the canyon passing these on the left and start upward for hundreds of feet, tending left as the "canyon" gets taller and narrower until you climb out just shy of the summit ridge, then up the ridge to the tip of the South.

To descend, you can scramble Northward and down East from the summit about 80 below the top, aiming for a notch on the north most rib of rock by a line of junipers.

You go up and around the notch to the North, and it's a walk off down to the trail South of the Maiden.

A standard light rack should suffice to protect it as well as you can, but it is probably best as a solo for competent parties.