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Peak Mountain 3

North Wide Crack

FA Pat Ament, 1960s, unknown/undocumented (Bubb/Haas Free solo 9/06)?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts off perhaps 25 meters down and left from the Western edge of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire. Start up a steep lelft-leaning handcrack (2.5", 5.8 to start), and get established in this as it widens... climb to the initial crack's end, and continue up and slightly right in a second system. The climbing is mostly 5.6 and heads up toward the arete on the right, criss-crossing it on a set of handcracks (5.8) or riding directly up it (5.7, exposed, less protected) to the top of the rock. This route shares some territory with the existing route, Right For Grapenuts (5.9+) on the upper part, but it is not known how much and depends upon the line you take (crack or direct face) anyway.

This could be a reasonably well-protected line most of the way, we believed.

Location

Start in a low angle, wide crack down left of the routes '

Left Crack

' and '

Right One

' on the Western end of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire and continue generally up and right in a system of handcracks.

Protection

A standard rack with cams to 4" and lots of long slings. Extra 2.5" and 3" units would be advised for a minimal runout.