Wild Child

The route starts on a platform about fifty feet to the left of the huge pegmatite dike that splits Mission Wall vertically. The first pitch is well protected 5.9+, and the crux is pulling over a right-facing corner roof about halfway up. It has 8 or 9 bolts plus anchors. The moves are fun, and it's the safest bolting on Mission Wall so far.

Pitch two is incomplete but should be done within a few weeks. The second pitch is classic Clear Creek steep 11c jug hauling. Right now it ends on the grassy ledge where the two climbs to the left of Wild Child also end. There are no anchors on Wild Child's second pitch, so you either have to traverse left to top of other routes or lower off top bolt of this route.

I intend Wild Child to be three to four pitches in length when it's finished....

From Jan 1, 2005:

Wild Child is now four pitches in length. From the top of pitch two, climb out the overhanging crack-chimney (10a dirty), at the third bolt undercling left onto the slab (do not climb straight up, it's more chossy). Cruise easy rock for a while, then friction past two bolts to reach Surette Ledge and a chain anchor. Actually it is more comfortable to belay off bolts found at the back of the ledge, the anchor I placed is for the descent. Pitch three is 10b.

Walk 15 feet right on Surette Ledge to a two-bolt belay station. Pitch four is high quality and exposed 10d/11a. Start with a delicate undercling/layback past three bolts through a steep, quartzite headwall to a crack, note the old ring angle piton in the crack (do not clip this). A long reach right allows you to clip the next bolt. Hand traverse right and fire through steep face (crux). Continue up 5.9 to a two-bolt anchor at the top of Mission Wall.

You can walk off to the South or rap the route.

Wild Child and most climbs on the Mission Wall are more adventurous than your standard Clear Creek clip-ups. There are still loose sections, lichen, fractured rock, and broken ledges. Surette Ledge is full of talus, so be very careful. If you rap the route, you may encounter rope hang-ups on pitch three. If you are inexperienced with multi-pitch or alpine-like rock, this route is probably not for you. If you are a solid 5.11 leader who likes adventure, then Wild Child is a fun outing.

Eds. this was combined from 2 entries into 1 for ease of use.

Pitch 1, 5.9+, (well protected) has eight bolts in 90 feet and anchors. Second pitch is not completed at this time but goes through a cool roof at 11c. About six bolts have been placed....

Now, the rest of the route has been bolted.