Gneiss Route

In the summer of 2000 Greg Purnell put up a route through the main black sector of the Mission Wall. Gneiss Route starts roughly in the middle sector of the wall, in the main section that has been cleared of undergrowth. The climbing starts just left of the pegmatite band; this band holds a nice route in its own right.

P1. For Greg's route, angle up left toward a small overhang and a tricky 5.11 crux 15 feet off the deck. Some interesting climbing in the 5.10/5.11 range gets you to a double bolt anchor at 90 feet. This makes a fine 5.11 pitch all by itself, although it still needs a bit of cleaning at the belay ledge--you'll need two ropes to get down from the 120' anchor though.

P2. The second pitch jumps left a bit immediately for a questionable flake, straightens out and heads for the black overhang above. The overhang can be negotiated on some remarkably huge holds at 5.12a. You can stop just over this roof or continue up the slab for 40 feet more. This provides good access to the Surette Ledge without the hair-ball scramble used when approached from above. Two stars for a lot of good climbing, largely but not completely good stone, and the well constructed bolting job.

QD only. This two pitch route can be done with a 60 m rope, but double ropes makes much better sense all around both for the raps and for the potential to string pitches together. The first pitch is 5.11 and the second is 5.12a/b.

The first pitch anchor is at 120' so be careful if you're only doing the first pitch.

Two finishes can be had for the upper pitch. One ends just above the overhang. Alternatively, you can continue through the black slab above for another 40 ft and pick up a third double bolt anchor at the Surette ledge.