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Peak Mountain 3

Stick Gully

FA an ascent has been made, Jan 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Stick Gully is an exercise in oak tree beating, punctuated with occasional pitches of rock climbing, some of which is pretty good. And an absolutely crazy double helix pitch through the final chockstone/headwall.

P1: From the end of the scrambling, make your way to the top of the chockstones. Thrash a short ways to move the belay to the back of the gully. P2: up the far back of the gully to delightful cracks to a level spot to more delightful crack climbing to oak trees. Thrash up in oak trees. A short distance before the next chock stone barrier, belay at a gash on the right. P3: up the gash; maybe 40 feet; don't kid yourself; this is not the best pitch you've ever climbed. P4: up the obvious crack in the left wall; maybe 25 feet; traverse right to belay on top of chock stones. P5: grovel up the gash to a forest p6: traverse climbers left on the ledge system and down/across slabs to return to the main gully below the final chock stones of doom. P7: an interesting step-across leads to the right hole; follow this up, right, and back to daylight; continue the spiral (climber's right no longer makes sense when you are coming from inside the cliff...) through a second chockstone hole, a move or two, and the gentle upper reaches of Stick Gully, roughly at the height where the down climb from Fear and Loathing traverses into Gemstone Gully.

Location

Weave up Stick Gully until it narrows below ominous chock stones and an abrupt end to the scrambling.

Descend Gemstone Gully or the approach to Gemstone/Fear & Loathing.

Protection

Standard rack; extras in the 3/4/5 camalot range might keep the 2nd climbing pitch from getting broken into two pitches.