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Peak Mountain 3

Elephant Penis

FA Richard Harrison, Paul van Bergen, Sal Mamusia, and Nick Nordblom
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch generally consists of excellent moderate hand to fist crack climbing with plenty of face holds thrown in. I'd call it 5.8ish and it's 35 meters on the money. This pitch ends at a nice ledge.

The second pitch is slightly harder, though still 5.8, perhaps 5.9. You need a #6 BD to protect the first 15 feet or so off the anchor. The crack narrows and eases in difficultly.

Location

This route is higher up on the left side of stick gully. It is a few hundred feet down the gully from stick left and is situated on the opposite side of the gully from stick left.

The route ascends the obvious varnished dihedral and is easily done in two pitches, though I believe you could do it in one with a 70 meter rope. You'll want a 70 meter rope to rappel the route.

Protection

BD Camalots 2 x #0.5 - #3, 1 x #4, 1 x #6.