Lost Souls

RHall, NH Admin. - On 17OCT16 the following edits,previously in COMMENTS from L. Hamliton and others, were made for clarity: a) The START was identified b) the real P1 was added c) P1 of the original submission became P2, P2>P3, etc. Lee Hansche adds: "the first pitch adds to the climb and i saw no reason to avoid it...pitch 3, the arete with 2 bolts is a little spooky and fun...  all in all a great climb..." Sean M added a comment 24APR21 with lots of beta on protection and where the pins are...if you’re into reading stuff like that before climbing the route.

START: For the original first pitch of Lost Souls, start at the same gearing-up spot used for Atlantis, Inferno, Last Unicorn, etc. Instead of scrambling up the long 3rd class section that accesses those routes, look for a ledge with several trees about 30 feet up and right from the start of scrambling. The first bolt of the Lost Souls can be seen from the ground, on a slab about ten feet above the tree ledge. Scramble up to the tree ledge and set the first belay.

 Pitch 1 - Slab climbing (tricky when wet) leads up to the obvious bolt. Zig right and then left to surmount the headwall, and continue up a slab past several fixed pitons, eventually reaching a bolt belay below the big headwall pitch of Lost Souls. About 100 feet, 5.9 PG.Pitch 2: climb up to a bolt under a small roof, mantle the lip (pin) and traverse right pulling another small roof at a bolt, traverse right at the base of the head wall and clip a bolt (crux) follow decently spaced bolts to a bolt and two pin anchor next to a flake 5.10.Pitch 3. traverse left 25 feet and place trad pro at the base of the arete (large nut or hex useful). Climb the beautiful arete on bolts (exposed, 5.9+) to a two bolt anchor below a wide dihedral.Pitch 4: climb the beautiful dihedral using crack and face holds to a half driven in lost arrow, continue up the corner to an awkward layback move (crux). Traverse left 20 feet to the two bolt anchor on Atlantis.Rappel straight down in two raps with 60 meter ropes.

The south buttress of Whitehorse can be accessed by the main climbers trail spanning the length of Whitehorse. Make sure to park in the climbers lot located on the right when driving towards the hotel. Please do not cross the golf course or disturb golfers as the White Mountain Hotel and the residents of the golf course have been helpful in providing access to the cliff.

The majority of this route relies on fixed protection; however, in true New Hampshire style, most of the bolts and pins were drilled/placed on lead. A standard rack from #0.4 to #3 and a set of nuts should suffice. Because of the wandering nature of the first and second pitch, using double ropes is a good idea.