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Peak Mountain 3

In Your Face (Mid-Cliff Start, R of Upper Inferno)

FA Uwe Schneider, Chris Stevens and Brian Tessier
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the face to the right of the upper half of Inferno's 5.8 crack pitches. 1) Climb up a slab past some horizontal cracks (hidden protection) heading for a left facing ear of rock. After placing gear in the ear make a committing mantle onto the ear and clip a bolt. Make a difficult high step (5.10a) continuing up the face above passing two horizontal cracks. Above a second bolt, make some hard moves (5.10d) to a horizontal ledge and step left to a shared belay on Inferno. 2) Step back right and face climb straight up past a piton and and a bolt (5.10d) to a good stance and a second bolt. Make another hard 5.10 move straight up past the bolt or step right a few feet to an easier finish on easier ground (5.8). The initial slab was rumored to have been climbed by Henry Barber as a start to the Inferno cracks way back when.

Location

Hotter than Hell or Inferno are the most popular routes to get to the tree ledge.

Protection

Standard Cathedral/Whitehorse rack up to 3 1/2". A .5 tri cam was used to protect the opening moves on the first pitch and a larger camming unit to protect the mantle move onto the ear.