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Peak Mountain 3

Tio Papi

FA L. Bear, Pink; Lover, G; Shred, T.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Do the shared start with

Horsefly Hootenany

, but continue right along the diagonal slash to a crimpy crux surmounting the face. Sustained climbing on nice incuts leads to a rest on jugs out right, then step back left for more pumpy business along the lieback flake and over the rooflet above. Climb mellower ground to a high anchor.

Aka Uncle Dad.

Location

In order to keep access copacetic and ensure the future of new-routing at this and other cliffs, climbers are asked to use the original approach trail, to the East Face of Hillbilly, moving along the eastern edge of the big gully running north-to-south up to the toe of the rock. Cairns have been placed on the talus and rock slabs marking the beginning of this approach. Please leave these in place or feel free to add others to mark the route.

The Flatirons Climbing Council is hoping to have a trail day with OSMP up there—to block off the new trail and shore up the old one and more clearly designate access. In the meantime, be extra careful about limiting erosion, and any help in blocking off any unneeded social trails is also appreciated.

Protection

All bolts (10 or 11) to double-bolt anchors.