Nephson

This was named for the Cormac McCarthy book. It was originally named Nephson. Most people still call it that.

Stickclip a high first (or second bolt), and boulder up the nice chocolate-covered rock to a ledge. Crimpy climbing above leads to a distinct crux rounding the slab bulge, then more sustained terrain takes you steeply up the obtuse corner to a fixed draw in the purple rock and the redpoint crux. Above, encounter mini-cruxes separated by good rests. We stayed right for a harder sequence at the next-to-last bolt, but I think people go up and left now, grabbing the flexing flake in the roof--caution with this (I tired to pry it off, but it kind of stayed stuck). At the last bolt, move left onto the hanging arete on cool pockets for the better finish.

It is in the middle of west face on the overhanging, blunt prow about halfway between

Cry Uncle

and

West Face

, the short 12c.

In order to keep access copacetic and ensure the future of new-routing at this and other cliffs, climbers are asked to use the original approach trail, to the East Face of Hillbilly, moving along the eastern edge of the big gully running north-to-south up to the toe of the rock. Cairns have been placed on the talus and rock slabs marking the beginning of this approach. Please leave these in place or feel free to add others to mark the route.

The Flatirons Climbing Council is hoping to have a trail day with OSMP up there—to block off the new trail and shore up the old one and more clearly designate access. In the meantime, be extra careful about limiting erosion, and any help in blocking off the new social trail is also appreciated.

12 bolts to double-bolt anchors. Skip bolt 8 on the go. A 60-meter rope is fine.