Naked Lunch

An excellent outing on the wall between Rock Odyssey and

Awakenings

. Note: except for one easily avoided move on P3, this is all Dream Canyon 5.10. Don't miss the fourth pitch which culminates the route with a nicely exposed roof.

Start in the same spot as

Rock Odyssey

and

Awakenings

, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.

P1: 10d (~7 bolts). Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt. The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.

P2: Actually starts at the

Awakenings

belay, so might be best to relocate here. Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.

P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux. 5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.

P4. Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof. A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.

Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.

The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...

7 draws plus biners etc for clipping the anchors. 10 draws + if linking 3 and 4.