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MapDescription
This is a great but much harder finish to
Hunky Monkey
. Do the first two pitches of
Hunky Monkey
, but instead of going up and right on the ramp for the third pitch, go LEFT and climb a short bolted headwall that goes at 11b. The fourth pitch is amazing and is rated 11d.
The 11b pitch has a crazy pull up and mantle move to get started which is followed by nice but easier climbing. The next pitch is excellent and involves steep and difficult to read face climbing.
Location
This is a variation to
Hunky Monkey
. Go left after the second pitch of
Hunky Monkey
to an obvious, bolted wall.
Protection
Both pitches are well bolted with good anchors.
Routes in Lost Angel
- 13Variation to Hunky Monkey (last 2 pitches of Only a Dreamer?)5.11dSport