Bugging Around

Bugging Around

Over the many decades since this old school route was established by Matta and McGee, most climbers hardly knew of it's existence. Perhaps this was due to its ground fall potential and bold runouts from the lack of protection. When the first ascent was done, there were no cams at the time. Only hexes and RP's. After decades of being in the shadows to routes like 'Initiation Crack' (5.10) and Dirty Dishes (5.8), the route has been responsibly bolted to bring it back into the light and allow it to be enjoyed by all. So, when you do find yourself on this fun line, imagine yourself as the first ascensionists working the initial 60' before reaching the base of the right facing arch above.....with your only pro 50' below you! Yep, "Deck City".

Modernized by Kernville locals' Dave Daly and Mark "Marco" Krebs (Jan 9th 2022)

Pitch #1:

Head up a short lieback finger crack and onto good edges before reaching the first bolt. Head straight up to reach a small ledge to the 2nd bolt. Make a few delicate friction moves through some subtle dishes while heading up and then left to a quick linked bolted rap anchor at the base of a right facing crescent arch. Clip the left bolt (3rd bolt) of the rap station and head up the arch. There is an opportunity to place small pro (.0) in the crescent right facing arch before reaching the 4th bolt. Continue straight up to the 5th bolt then head to a 10' wide overlap. Place pro here (green Alien/.3 BD Camelot). Climb over the overlap to the 6th bolt. Continue up to a small ledge where the 7th bolt is encountered.  From here, head up a slender brown patina dyke. Mid way up, clip the 8th and final bolt before reaching a good sized ledge. Place gear with a runner before heading left to the anchor for 'Fine Line'. Rappel to the first rap station 110' (single 70 meter) to the base of the crescent arch where the 2-bolt rap anchor is located. Be sure to tie the ends of your rope before casting off since you'll have only a few meters of rope to spare. Then rappel from this rap anchor to the ground (65').

Pitch #2:

If you're wanting to do the entire original line, locate a small crack 10' right of the anchors. Climb up the thin crack and out onto the the open slab. Easy 5th leads to the base of the cap rocks. Locate an easy chimney to climb to the summit.

Start to the right of 'Fine Line', approximately 20 feet at the base of a left leaning wide crack. Alternatively, one can start in the same crack as 'Fine Line' but quickly move out right onto the ledge that meets up with the wide crack from below.

• 70 meter rope

• (8) quick draws & (3) alpine draws

• Small handful of cams (pro to 2"), emphasis on small cams to .05