- Edit (TBD)
Description
The crux is right off of the ground. Jam the tips crack through a small, slippery bulge. The crux is over when it is possible to get your whole finger in the crack to jam. Then mantle onto a ledge and jam the 5.6 hand sized splitter to a ledge with a bolted anchor.
Admin's Note
: It is highly recommended that you continue from the bolted anchor for another 100 feet of excellent climbing along the tiny crack (5.7-) above the first bolted belay. The crack is usually too small to insert fingers but there is an abundance of face holds. It is possible to adequately protect this crack using micro-cams and tiny stoppers. Descend from a bolted rap station 160 feet off the ground.
Location
About 40 feet to the right of lieback crack. It is the obvious splitter to the right of the thin crack.
Protection
I used an old BD yellow cam (I think it is .2 size piece) so a blue TCU is probably suffecient. Then a .3 BD (Blue) size piece and a .4 (Grey) BD size piece. Then some wires and hand size pieces for the rest of the climb.
Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
- 18Initiation Crack5.10dTrad