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Peak Mountain 3

Schizuphoric

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Variety of thoughtful interesting moves on 3-dimensional rock structures, especially aretes.

Start on face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.

Up face past first piton onto wide platform, then up crack along right side of obvious left-trending gully, and where gully heads up straight, continue up it. Soon see a way to exit Left onto face or arete. Continue up a sequence of arete segments and sideways moves or short faces to reach the next arete segment. Stay well right of the route "Beware of the Gong" and left of the obvious gully which has the route "Interview With a Psychopath" on its right wall.

Continue up past the level of the two-bolt top anchor for "Interview" and reach a vegetated slope. See rock corner to left with a bolt on the face left of that corner and a two-bolt anchor above the platform on top of that corner. Finish up the wide crack on right side of  corner to reach the two-bolt anchor for the route "Beware of the Gong".

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

Location

At face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.

See line

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Protection

Two-bolt top anchor (with no chains or rings), but No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Top-Rope from bolt anchor at top of pitch 2 of the route "Beware of the Gong". Obvious way to reach this anchor would be to lead Variation 2.2 of Pitch 2 of the route "Sticky Revelations". Or perhaps by leading Pitch 2 of the route "Persecuted for Righteousness".

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.