Choo Choo Express

Choo Choo Express is a nice 3 pitch trad climb up the right side of Prophecy wall. The route follows a crack system in a corner past a couple ledges with a small roof halfway up and another roof at the top.

P1. Start off the ramp below a chimney system in a corner. A line of bolts ascends a column just right of the chimney to a big ledge with anchors. 6 bolts to a three bolt anchor. 50 feet 5.7. Alternatively you can climb the chimney and crack system to this ledge. Gear to 3" for the chimney 5.6.

P2. The money pitch. Move left into the corner and climb the crack with good jams and laybacks up to a good stance below a small roof. Follow the crack around the left side of the roof and pull unto the face above (crux) using the thin crack and good patina edges. Move up into an alcove and finish up easier ground to a big ledge with a cactus, this ledge is shared with The Visionaries to the left. Gear to 3", set of nuts and tcu's. 90' 5.10a.

P3. Start up the thin seam straight above the belay or up the right side of the column just to the left. Follow the thin crack system past some insecure moves aiming for the first of two bolts below the roof. Clip the two bolts moving slightly right, climb straight over the bulge after clipping the second bolt on great patina plates and top out. Gear to 2" set of nuts. 50' 5.10a.

Descent: The top anchor on Choo Choo is not set up well for a rappel. The best option is to move about 10 feet left to the anchors of The Visionaries and rap that route. Three raps with a 60m using the bolted anchors. You can rap from the pitch two ledge (cactus) to the ground with a 70m with an easy 5-10 foot down scramble. Tie knots

Follow the trail from the lot over the pipeline and up to the right side of the wall. Work up onto the left leaning ramp and locate a crack system with a ledge about 50 feet up. Starts just right of a chimney system in a corner. Just right of the route The Visionaries.

Gear to 3" set of nuts and tcu's helpful