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Peak Mountain 3

The Urge

FA Jeff Frizzell
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Description

This is another basalt ultra-classic that mysteriously receives a sandbag split-grade in the guidebook. As if there were any doubt this was at least 12d! Unless you're a honed basalt master, this will probably feel like 5.13. Perhaps the sandbag is due to the fact that the route is relatively easy most of the way, with a sinister double crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

Location

Red Columns, the next "outy" left of Big Tuna

Protection

Bolts. This route is the most runout in the Upper Gorge. Consider TR rehearsal, or hanging double-length slings off the 4th and 5th bolts so you can clip before executing the cruxes.