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Peak Mountain 3

Unbroken Chain

FA Nathan Charlton and Steve Morris, 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located on the face to the left of the first pitch of

The Side Wall

about halfway up the West Ridge. Climb up about 12 ft. in the corner of

The Side Wall

and then pull up and left following a series of underclings (crux). Follow a dihedral to the anchors. A fun toprope or a scary and strenuous lead. The holds are good, but the moves are reachy and the feet poor at the crux. This pitch felt harder and was definitely more pumpy than the first pitch of

The Side Wall

. There is a fun face climb to the left of this that is easily toproped as well (no name). It seemed to be in the hard 5.11 range somewhere.

Protection

Easily toproped from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Sidewall (that's what I did). Otherwise, it looks like you could get some small to midsize cams in the underclings.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 44
    Unbroken Chain
    5.11c
    Trad