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Peak Mountain 3

Pygmy Pony

FA Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the

Pony Express

area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of

Dandi-Line

and about 8 feet left of

Sister Morphine

. Start on

Dandi-Line

and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a #1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into

Dandi-Line

, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 7
    Pygmy Pony
    5.9+
    Trad