- Edit (TBD)
Description
This crack offers sizes all the way from fingers to offwidth and has an awesome overhanging fist/rattly fist section. It goes up a southward facing feature which is located south of all publicly documented routes in Snow Canyon. The FA is still unknown. Two expansion bolts were installed in December of '14 and the old webbing on the pitons was removed with only a solid tug. The route was (re?)named for the It's history of almost falling into the abyss of being forgotten.
Location
37.18284, -113.63943
There is no trail to this climb. Tred lightly.
Take the Johnson Canyon Trail (located just outside the south entrance of the park) until you hit the big obvious wash. Go left (north) and walk in the wash for a few minutes until you see a tributary wash on the right. Take that wash and you will see the obvious, overhanging face with the crack going up the middle of it.
Protection
Helmets. All the choss isn't off this route yet.
A 70 meter rope minimum.
If you only have a 60 meter you can use the first set of chains as an anchor and do it as two pitches.
Single set Camalots from .3 to 1, three 2's four 3's, and five or six #4's, depending comfort level on fists/wide fists. A couple slings help prevent drag and a draw if you want to clip the mid-way anchors.
There should be two prema-biners at the top.