Deviant Chimney

Tapering sandstone chimney formed by a huge detached block leaning against the wall. The start is 20 feet or so above the valley floor; easy scrambling gets you there.

Slightly too wide and angled at the bottom to bridge, the route starts with a move or two of face climbing, then bridging as the chimney narrows. Fairly strenuous right at the top due to the restricted width (but not difficult).

If you top out with your back on the detached block (the natural position) the anchor bolts will be behind you.

Although "only" a 5.4 in difficulty the route is a fun change from face and crack climbing and is always in the shade (except for perhaps a few minutes a day in the winter).

3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Slings or draws needed for top rope. Bolts are on wall, anchor is on leaning block.