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Peak Mountain 3

Coco's Boathouse

FA Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a long, mostly hands route. Start in a corner hidden behind a huge pillar. Step across an easy move on a bit of crummy rock to a splitter. Follow up past a bolt by some stacked nuggets in the crack (easy and more solid than they look). Follow a long #2 splitter that dwindles to a .75 or two and the anchor. 40m.

Despite the couple of slightly chunky sections, this has one of the better, longer perfect hands (#2 Camalots) sections around. I couldn't believe it hadn't been climbed before. I'd give four stars but for the short dirty sections. Perhaps it will clean up. I did clean everything I thought was dangerous.

Location

Coco's Boathouse is behind a giant pillar (100') that has slipped down the hill a bit and is clearly visible on the approach to the right of the trail terminus and main part of the wall. Pretty sure its right of most of the routes in the book. Maybe a little less than half way to the end of the wall and the turn to Original Meat. 5-10 minutes from the top of the trail. Walk down and past the obvious massive pillar and then scramble up behind it from the south.

Protection

Camalots: One .5? Three or four .75s. Three or four 1s. As many 2s as you can get your hands on.