Out To Pasture

This aesthetic route will test your power as well as your endurance, starting with a techy yet burly boulder problem, and ending with loads of excellent fingers and off fingers crack climbing. Stop reading here if you don't want the spraydown.

The route begins on a ledge to the right of the crack. Your belayer should be standing down and left of the ledge 20ft below you. Traverse broken jugs leftward under the roof on relatively easy moves. If you stick clipped, you're safe. If not, you're looking at a horrendous groundfall where you inevitably become talus food.

The bolt can be clipped from an undercling below the roof before the business begins and protects the boulder crux on the thin, offset seam. Shallow locks and sidepulls with creative footwork on the lip of the roof will get you over the roof and past the hardest moves on the route. In theory.

Move into splitter fingers as the crack begins widening, going through a few changing corners on off-fingers. Just when things are getting desperate you arrive at a stance and can get some juice back. Which is good because the enduro crux looms above. Plug some gear and enter the BEAUTIFUL offset fingers splitter, which slowly narrows to tips. Rock gods might be able to stop and place gear, but most mere mortals will probably just "buy the ticket", if you know what I mean. Right before the crack pinches to nothingness, some pods miraculously appear and allow for the best clipping stance one could reasonably ask for on this type of affair. Clip the anchor and lower back to the ledge where it all began with a 70m rope.

Located to the left of Vegetarian Corner, on the same aspect,  before turning around the arete to the wall that hosts Twin Cam and Sacred Cow. Start on the ledge to the right of the crack.

One Bolt

Stick clip (not using one means traversing out over the talus on relatively easy moves, but with an otherwise unprotectable fall of around 20 feet)

In BD:

#0.1

#0.2

#0.3

#0.4 x 3

#0.5 x 3

#0.75 x 3

#2

70m rope