Pipe Dreams

This is a very nice sport climb on the North Face of Black Widow. Immediately around the corner from Vaino/BobD's new routes, right of

Dracula

and the

Resinator

is this pitch.

The lower section features back-to-back mantles to get established at a no-hands rest. The next section climbs a knobby face to a ledge with an intermediate anchor. Avoid stemming into the adjacent corner in this section, that is slightly contrived and thus the reason this is a 2-star climb and not 3. Unclip the anchor draw and (if you can reach it) the last bolt on the lower section to alleviate rope drag on this wandering pitch. The upper section makes a traverse left to a crack, followed by a tricky traverse back right and eventually into a jug hole (crux). It is easier climbing to the top.

Bring a 60m rope, since this is a fairly long one.

14 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is also an intermediate anchor to which you can do a 9 bolt climb.