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Peak Mountain 3

Franken Berry

FA Kevin Capps, equipped by S. Damboise, S. Hong
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Description

Franken Berry offers technical arete climbing on beautiful granite. The crux is short-lived, but it packs a punch! From the start, moderate climbing leads straight up to the left-angling, blunt arete. Rest before the arete, then work through the meat of it with sidepulls, crimps, and a smeary foot sequence that will leave you intrigued enough to keep trying until you do it. After pulling past the second mini-roof, more moderate climbing above awaits as you trend up and left to finish on

Dracula

.

Four closely-spaced bolts in the crux (I didn't clip all of them) make for working the route nice, and it will give you more options for redpoint clipping tactics.

This route was developed by legendary Boulder climbers, Steve Damboise and Steve Hong, around 15 years ago. I removed a bolt and added a new bolt to make clipping before the crux section a little easier. I do plan to come back to give it its own anchor, but for now, it finishes on

Dracula

. There are two bolts leading into it from

Count Chocula

that I left alone for now, so don't get confused by those bolts.

Location

Start just right of

Count Chocula

(the route that goes out the roof), and climb the left-angling arete.

Protection

Bolts.