The Skull

One of the most prominent features on the largest dome in the Needles is the enormous, inset cave/arch feature in the center of the south face of Voodoo Dome. This 400' tall cave is ominous and spectacular, and there is only one route that tackles it directly: The Skull.

The Skull was recorded as 5.11+ (11c to be precise) in the original Moser/Vernon/Paul guidebook and 5.12a in the more recent Solem book. I'm just gonna call it 5.12 here and offer a little recommendation: Bring your A-game. The route has little in the way of fixed pro, a slightly involved approach and descent, and suffers a bit for want of traffic, but on the plus side it is a crazy cool place to be and has a distinctly old-school feel. The Skull's location on the inside right corner of the cave lends it shade from dawn until early afternoon which keeps it much cooler than anything else on Voodoo Dome.

Approach: I believe it is possible to scramble directly up to the bottom of the cave from just left of the toe of rock you would normally pass on the right to get to the Dihedrals area of Voodoo Dome, but I have not attempted this. Instead, one can easily build an anchor at the start of The Emperor and belay a short, awkward traverse leftwards across a slab to access the cave. Continue working across the bottom of the cave through a small jungle until just left of center. From here scramble up and back right into a narrow chimney/gully that is choked with blocks. Climb these blocks, immediately hang a sharp lefthand turn into another corridor, squeeze past a bush, and continue to the very back of this corridor. Here you can easily mantle up and onto an expansive, beautiful slab that forms the true floor of cave. From here the left-leaning triple cracks of The Skull's first pitch are obvious.

P1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the triple cracks. Steep, excellent jamming on rock covered with a strange mineral deposit that leaves it feeling a bit like limestone. Belay from gear on a nice ledge in the vicinity of a fixed pin.

P2 (5.12, 100'): Execute a boulder problem to access the corner above, using extreme caution if handling the enormous leprotic flake on the right. Once in the corner, slam in some gear, take a quick breath, and boulder up a steep stemming section with tricky gear and cryptic climbing. A series of jugs marks the end of the crux, but there is still a long stretch of surprisingly pumpy jamming ahead. Some of the rock is sharp, the angles make it a bit awkward, and there's even a wide section to slap you in the face near the end. Belay on an uncomfortable sloping stance at a pair of rusty fixed wires (other gear abounds).

P3 (5.12, 100'): You thought it was over? Oh no... you still have the roof of the cave... Turns out this is not really the issue however - that would be the giant flake immediately off the belay. Steeper than it looks, the finger crack behind the flake is just not quite what you want it to be and this becomes a sleeper crux. If you can get through this 20' section of struggle and the flake doesn't peel off and crush your belayer, you're likely home free. Breach the roof (be wary of a pinch point that can strangle your rope) and work up an easier right-facing corner to good belay ledge.

Descent: From the top of the third pitch you can join Crossbones, traverse over towards Summer Sojourn, or just forge your own line up easier terrain to the top of Voodoo Dome. Alternatively it is possible to traverse right and creatively rappel down into oblivion. If you're lucky you'll eventually hook up with some fixed anchors on Pea Soup (and The Emperor) and can ultimately reach  the ground near where this all began.

The right side of the massive recess in the center of Voodoo Dome. Use the Dihedrals approach.

2x Tiny to #2 Camalot.

3x 0.5, 0.75 Camalot.

Wires.

Optional #4 Camalot for P2 wide section.