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Peak Mountain 3

Summer Sojourn

FA Bender, Warender (1974)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 (5.7)

Stem and jam an obvious deep crack system in a corner/gully. An offwidth section past a small roof is the crux. Belay from bolts on a sloping ledge beneath a striking dihedral with offwidth. (Alternately, climb a hand crack on the prow out to the left of the traditional start. This 5.8/5.9 crack leads to the same belay as the traditional start.)

Pitch 2 (5.6)

Stem the striking dihedral above the belay. The crack takes 3.5-4.5" (?). Easier crack climbing leads to a belay beneath a roof.

Pitch 3 (5.7/5.8)

Bypass the roof on the right (crux of route) and belay from a sloping ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.5)

Climb up then traverse left on slab to a dish and gear. Climb the water groove above to belay from bolts. The traverse and the runout up the groove is the pshychological crux for many.

Pitch 5 (5.4)

Continue up slab to a large belay ledge.

Pitch 6 (5.5)

Climb a headwall via chickenheads.

Location

The route starts in one of the left-most of many corners/chimneys that break up the south east side of the dome. The approach from Needlerock Creek takes 45-90 minutes depending on your experience with the trail.

Protection

Small to 3.5 or 4"