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Peak Mountain 3

Lower Finger Direct

FA Herby Hendricks, Max Hinkle, 1960s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This would be a bold lead indeed, with only a single unreliable drilled angle (placed after the FA) near the crux. A fall below the pin would probably result in, at best, a ride to the hospital. It is best done as a TR after climbing

Finger Ramp

or

Lower Finger Traverse

, and definitely worth doing when set up in this fashion.

Climb straight up the improbable slab directly beneath the anchor in the finger alcove, moving slightly left and then back right. Because the rock is a bit soft and has few positive holds, the route requires finesse and balance rather than brute strength.

Location

This starts at the base of the Tourist Gully below a slightly tiny, left-leaning dihedral.

Protection

If you want to lead it, you only need one QD to clip the single manky drilled angle (placed after the FA).