Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It)

The crux of the route is trying not to aid it as you slip and slide your way up the sandy, breakable, dime-size ledges. Luckily there are about 16 or so pitons on the first pitch, and it is great for your head until you reach the last one with a healthy 30' runout to the anchors. If you decide to continue on, it is probably better to skip the anchors and head to the top on much more brittle terrain with standard Garden protection of spaced out, manky pitons.

Go up the Tourist Gully to the second eye bolt and/or just below the bomber set of 3 anchors and look right. It is the line of pitons just all a few feet apart.

This is just right of

Chatters

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Pitons. Lots of them on the first pitch.